Egyptian Tortoise (Testudo kleinmanni)
Husbandry and Rearing of Hatchlings
Housing (Indoors)
 | Egyptian tortoises posses a high metabolic rate during periods of activity. These little tortoises require relatively large enclosures in order to remain healthy. One adult tortoise can be housed comfortably in an enclosure having eight square feet of floor space. Two or three adults will require at least twelve square feet. |
| Well ventilated enclosures are a must for this species. Because Egyptians are poor climbers, the enclosure walls can be as low as six inches above the substrate without possibility of escape. |
| Hiding places allow tortoises to feel secure in their enclosures. Hides can be constructed from a variety of materials. Currently we use hides which are constructed in a way that provides an overhang along two sides of the enclosure. The overhang is approximately four inches above the cage substrate and extends six inches inward from the enclosure wall. From the underside of the overhang we drape row upon row of newspaper strips. The newspaper strips extend from the bottom of the overhang to the top of the enclosure substrate. Although not particularly attractive these "full contact" hides function extremely well. They not only allow their occupants to feel secure, but because the hide runs the length of two sides of the enclosure it also allows tortoises to choose a resting spot within a broad range of temperatures. Within the hide areas, daytime temperatures ranging from 80 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit should be available. All temperatures are as measured with a thermometer on the substrate surface. Hides should be of stable construction and not subject to collapse, especially if heavy materials such as rocks are used. |
| A basking area should be provided during the daytime with temperatures ranging between 95 and 110 degrees Fahrenheit. A small flood bulb suspended out of reach of the tortoises works well for this purpose. A radiant heat source is preferred over hot rocks, heat pads, or other "underside" heat sources. We recommend that a rounded rock or similar object be placed directly beneath heat lamps. This reduces the chance that a tortoise might flip over and be quickly overcome by possibly lethal high temperatures directly underneath the heat bulb. |
| In combination with the flood bulb, a florescent fixture serves to provide additional illumination. Egyptian tortoises can be maintained on a twelve to fourteen hour light cycle year round. A more natural approach, and one which seems to be a prerequisite to breeding this species, is to allow longer summer days and shorter winter days. An inexpensive electrical timer works well for this purpose. The timer should be set for ten and a half hour days during the winter, increasing to fourteen hours during the summer. |
| Optimally nighttime temperatures should drop to 65 degrees Fahrenheit, although temperature five degree above or below this can be tolerated. |
| Any substrate that allows easy cleaning, proper footing, and is not harmful if ingested will work fine. For juveniles up to three inches in length, we use fiberglass window screening cut to floor size, placed over several layers of newspaper, and anchored around the edges with flat rocks. While not overly attractive, this setup is very sanitary and easy to keep clean, and also allows excellent footing. For larger juveniles and adults we use crushed oyster shell with excellent results. Crushed shell of this type is sold by farm supply or feed stores as a calcium supplement for laying chickens. To minimize accidental ingestion of shell particles, food plates are offered on newspaper or craft paper. |
| The floors and walls of the enclosure should be smooth and nonporous to facilitate proper cleaning. If wood is used, it should be coated with polyurethane or other nontoxic sealant. |
Housing (Outdoors):
| Because we live at a latitude having short summers with evening temperatures often dipping below 50 degrees, we are unable to maintain Egyptian tortoises outdoors. Outdoor maintenance may be a viable option in warmer regions. Use the environmental parameters discussed under indoor housing to get an idea of whether outdoor housing is an option in your area. It may be possible to move the animals outdoors for at least part of the year. There are obvious benefits to outdoor housing, but there exists an entirely different set of factors to consider - for example the possibility of predation, escape, theft, and retention of disease causing organisms in natural soils. |
| It is beyond the scope of our experience to outline all of the conditions under which outdoor maintenance of this species is a viable alternative. Additional information in this regard may be available from tortoise societies or local enthusiasts. |
Water:
| We do not provide water inside enclosures on a continual basis. Once each week hatchlings are allowed to soak in warm water (85-90 degrees Fahrenheit) for approximately 10 minutes. The water should be shallow, so that the tortoise can easily raise it's head to breathe while standing on the bottom. Tortoises that are soaking should be observed at all times, if they flip themselves over they can easily drown. Soaking tortoises not only allows for adequate hydration, but also facilitates the passage of feces and uric crystals. As Egyptian tortoises grow the frequency of soakings is gradually reduced so that when they are near adult size we discontinue soakings altogether. All water then comes from their food which is misted with water prior to feeding to boost it's moisture content. |
Feeding:
| Food items should be cut to a manageable size. We feed juveniles less than one year old on a daily basis. Other successful keepers have fed hatchlings every other day with good results. |
| Ideally, food items should be relatively high in fiber, high in calcium, low in phosphorous, low in protein, and low in sugar content. Within these parameters, we provide as much variety as possible. |
| We thoroughly mix all food items prior to feeding in an attempt to broaden the diet of potentially picky eaters. |
| Specific food items we provide are as follows: |
Primary food items: grasses and grass hay, clover and clover hay, dandelion greens and flowers, collard greens, turnip greens, and lettuce (not iceberg).
Secondary food items (used in lesser quantities): cabbage (head, bok choy, or napa), alfalfa, parsley, celery, shredded carrot, and mustard greens.
Occasionally (no more than once per month): spinach, squash, cucumber, and tomato.
Supplements:
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Calcium carbonate fortified with vitamin D3 is dusted on all food items. Hatchlings in particular have a very high requirement for calcium. Vitamin D3 is necessary to help metabolize calcium in an indoor environment. The amount of supplementation is roughly in accordance with that suggested by Highfield (see suggested reading). |
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We also provide a high quality multivitamin supplement once per week to all sizes of tortoises. |
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As an additional source of fiber we suggest providing unlimited access to dry grass and clover. This dry graze promotes properly formed stools, reduces problems with intestinal parasites, and seems to promote smooth shell growth. |
General Sanitation:
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Never house different species together. "Bugs" that may not be pathogenic to one species can be deadly to another. Likewise it is recommended that hands and equipment be washed between feeding and other maintenance of different species. |
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Quarantine new arrivals for at least three months before introducing them to resident stock. Healthy tortoises develop predictable daily routines within a few weeks in a new environment. Aberrant behavior is often the first sign that something may be wrong. Only well acclimated tortoises that look healthy, eat well, behave normally, and have been screened for parasites should be introduced to resident stock. Captive bred animals are always the best choice. |
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A weak bleach solution works well to disinfect enclosures and food dishes. Dishes should be thoroughly rinsed after disinfecting. |
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Enclosures should be "spot cleaned" as required. If spot cleaning is done routinely, a total disinfecting of the enclosure may only be necessary every six to eight months. |
Suggested Reading:
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Highfield, A.C. 1996. Practical Encyclopedia of Keeping and Breeding Tortoises and Freshwater Turtles. Carapace Press, c/o The Turtle Trust, BM Tortoise, London, WCIN 3xx, England. 295 pp |
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Pritchard, Peter C. H. 1979. Encyclopedia of Turtles. T.F.H. Publications, Inc. 211 West Sylvania Avenue, Neptune, NJ 07753. 895pp |
